Let’s talk about the 20.25" 1600W Halogen Lamp
If you’re doing flash curing, you know the drill. You don’t need a slow bake; you need a massive, instant hit of heat to get the job done. That’s exactly why we built these 20.25-inch bulbs. They pull 1600W at 240VAC to pump out high-intensity shortwave IR. The magic here is that the heat hits the surface and locks everything in fast, without soaking through and overheating the rest of your part. The power side of things Putting 1600W into a footprint this size gives you a very specific kind of punch. We stick with 240VAC because it keeps the arc stable and gets that filament screaming hot almost the second you flip the switch. Just a heads-up: check your controllers. These things have a bit of an “inrush” when they kick on. If your power supply is too small, you’re going to blow through filaments way faster than you should. Why quartz and halogen? We use a halogen cycle so the tungsten filament doesn’t just evaporate and cloud up the glass. It keeps the tube crystal clear, which means your light output stays strong for the long haul. Then there’s the quartz. Flash curing is brutal on glass because of the constant, rapid temperature swings. One second it’s cold, the next it’s searing. Regular glass would just shatter, but this quartz envelope handles that thermal shock without breaking a sweat. Putting them to work You’ll mostly see these in adhesive stations or powder coating lines. It’s all about that “flash”—hitting the surface just long enough to set the bond or lock in the finish. If you’ve got standard 20-inch frames, these usually slide right in. One thing to watch out for, though. 1600W in a tube this small creates some serious localized heat.**Pay close attention to your reflectors.**If your geometry is off and the heat bounces straight back into the ends of the lamp, you’ll fry the seals. Keep it aimed right, and you’re golden.